This project involved improving the property frontage in two ways. A basic vehicular access was created and a dilapidated wire fence was replaced with a simple rail fence. A compact dozer was used for the job as the blade was perfect for cutting in the driveway and the machine had a PTO enabling a post hole digger to be used.

Driveway

The entrance had originally been used for tractor access from the road into a side paddock. The area had since been converted into a lawn / garden and a dry weather car entrance was required.

First the dozer was used to strip the topsoil. The topsoil was then spread over the nature strip to fill in some low points. Next a ramp suitable for a car to drive over was cut in. Then the sides of the entrance were given a gentle bank by tilting the blade to one side. This prevents the cut from eroding and makes it easier to mow along the nature strip up to the edge of the driveway.

Removing the topsoil and exposing the subsoil provides a sound base for the crushed rock to sit on. If the rock is placed directly on the top soil it tends to sink in and quickly becomes useless.

This access will only have occasional light traffic so non descript crushed rock was used to keep costs down. This means that the material has had less "sorting" and there is a mixture of larger rock, smaller rock and fines. On heavy traffic driveways it is important to make the first layer all larger rock (50mm) to prevent it disappearing into the subsoil. An additional layer of smaller rock (12mm down to 6mm) can be laid on top. The smaller rock is smoother to drive on and tends to bind in together better.

The crushed rock was laid to a depth of 100mm. The rock was roughly pushed into place with the front of the blade. Then the finishing touches are done by backblading. As the name suggests this is done by reversing the dozer and using the back of the blade to gently distribute the crushed rock.

Fence and Gate

First the old barb wire and fence posts were removed. A chain attached to the poles and the dozer blade made it easy to lift out the posts no longer required.

Once the area was cleared a string line was used to help keep the new fence straight. A post hole digger attached to the back of the dozer was used to dig the post holes. Holes were dug to a depth of 600mm and a simple marked stick was used to confirm depth.

The first post was placed in the hole and the soil backfilled with a shovel. Throwing some cement in with the soil will help keep the posts solid in the ground.

A handy post level was used to check that the post was vertical side and front on.

The blunt end of the crowbar was used to compact the soil to keep the post square.

A second post was put in repeating the process. Next the distance between the top of two posts was measured and the horizontal (rail) was cut to length.

10mm diameter galvanised steel rods were used to attach the posts and rails. Just drill the sides of the posts and ends of the rails and push it all together.

This process was repeated for the length of fence required. Then a wire was run across the top and bottom of the post using a fence strainer to add tension. Then a mesh wire was clipped to the top and bottom wires.

A simple gate was included. A pivot pin was attached to the bottom of the post for the gate to swing on and a hook fitted at the top of the post keeps the gate in place. The gate is finished off with the gate latch on the opposite post.