How To Build a Bush Shed

If you have an old rainwater tank lying around, rather than throw it away, you can to turn it into a simple bush shed. A bush shed can be very handy for storing firewood, farm implements or parking a dozer out of the rain.

Obviously, you will need a tank. It is surprising how rusty a tank can be on the top and bottom but still have a good wall. This is fine because the tank wall will become the shed roof once the tank is cut in half.

When planning, select a site where the shed opening can face away from the prevailing weather. Also, consult your local council to see if planning permits are required. For this project, the structure was built up against an existing shed. This provided one ready made wall.

A dozer was used to level out the ground at the selected site. The dozer also made light work of removing a small tree that had to go. Next a simple frame was constructed to hold up the tank halves. Holes were dug for 6 posts - 3 on each side. They were dug 900mm deep.

Having a dozer with a 3 point linkage and PTO was very useful as it enabled an auger to be used to do the drilling.

The spacing of the holes was determined by the dimensions of the tank. In other words, the width of the shed is the same as the diameter of the tank. And the length of the shed is approximately double the height of the tank when the 2 halves go end to end. If you overlap the two tank halves, the length of the shed will be slightly shorter.

150mm diameter treated pine posts were used. Some small "feet" were nailed onto the bottom of the posts to help anchor them in the ground. A post level was used to check that the posts were roughly vertical - no need to be overly fussy - it is a bush shed after all. Then the posts were secured in the ground firmly by mixing in some cement with the soil and then using a crow bar to compact it in.

Next 40mm x 200mm timber beams were used to make the horizontal rails. (25mm would have been adequate but that was what was lying around. Again, the length of the rails was determined by the dimensions of the tank). 10mm x 125mm coach screws were used to secure the rails to the posts. Galvanized screws were used because they stand up best in treated pine. Clamps came in handy to hold everything in place. Use a level to make sure the rails are horizontal. To get the two rails at the same height, a spirit level was spanned between them using a long piece of wood.

A chainsaw was then used to lop the tops of the posts off at the height of the rail.

A reciprocating saw was used to cut the tank in half. Then the tank halves were lifted onto the rails.

The first tank half was fixed to the rail with roofing screws. Then the second tank half was slid into position overlapping the first tank half by a couple of corrugations. This provides a reasonable seal - not necessarily waterproof in heavy rain or strong winds - but good enough for the purpose.

Walls were created for the shed by spanning some metal sheets across the three posts on each side. Again clamps and roofing screws were used to fix the sheets.

The dozer was used to clear away the old tank stand including the concrete piers. Then finally, the ground was levelled by backblading with the dozer.